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Poker - Know Who is Sitting Where

Poker - Know Who is Sitting Where.

A poker article by Peter Birks at BETDIRECT POKER for Easy Play Games

More words have been written on the importance of your choice of seat when playing poker than I would care to read in a single session. And rightly so, since, after finding a weak game and feeling well in yourself, your position at the table is probably the most significant factor when it comes to winning in the long run.

As the inestimable Big Dave Dowling wrote in an earlier article, much of good play at limit is not about genius, it is about solid patient play, waiting for other players to make mistakes. The counterpoint to this is that you should not make mistakes yourself. If you are multi-tabling, at least 95% of your actions need to be automatic. This means that nearly ALL your pre-flop actions should be automatic. If you haven't thought through (or, preferably) experienced everything that can happen to you before the flop in a limit game, then you should not be multi-tabling.

However, just because any pre-flop action should come to you automatically, this does not mean that you should do the same thing with the same cards when the same actions have taken place elsewhere at the table. Part of your winning edge, a very important part, is that you know your opponents better than they know you. Perhaps they are sitting down for their first game in a couple of weeks. If you were their opponent then, they have probably forgotten all about you, but you (I hope!) will not have forgotten about them. You will have at least a one-word note (be that "tight" or "loose", "aggressive" or "conservative") that will give you some kind of clue as to how they play.

Completism isn't necessary; you don't have to knock yourself out compiling a hand-by-hand analysis of all your opponents. But you do need some kind of record. The shortest note relating to a hand (e.g. to take an example that I wrote this morning, "limped KJo in early no pcs" - which is my own short-hand for "limped with King-Jack off, no previous callers") gives you a hint on how the guy plays and will also serve to jog your memory. Another good way to remember players is to look where they are from. Even if you have no note, and the name only vaguely rings a bell, it's amazing how seeing that he is "that guy from Wigan" can trigger a memory in your mind.

Here's an example of how knowing about your opponents can lead you to make the right decision pre-flop. You are in the small blind with my old favourite, a pair of threes. It is passed round to the button, who calls. What do you do?

The instinct of most $2-$4 and weekend $3-$6 players is to call, in all cases. In fact, calling is only sometimes the right option here. As you doubtless know by now if you have been reading the wise words of messrs Ward, Hawkins and Dowling, a pair in limit either wants one opponent (meaning that the pair is favourite against anything but an overpair) or at least four opponents (in which case you are getting implied odds for flopping a set).

By calling in the small blind after the button limps you get two opponents, which is a fairly rotten scenario. However, provided you have a passive player on your left, one who rarely raises from the Big Blind, then you are just about getting implied odds to your set. The exception would be in a $3-$6 game where the small blind is only $1. Here you would have to put in $2, and the call would always be wrong. You should either fold or raise.

But, when to fold and when to raise (and when to call)? Let's look at the possible types of player and whether they are on your right or left.

Case A: Button is loose-passive, weak tight, or loose-aggressive, Big blind is loose-passive.

Solution: Call. Your opponents will both at least call for one more bet, so a raise is pointless. But (with the exception of the small small blind scenario mentioned above) you are getting implied odds if you flop a set. In addition, if both opponents miss the flop and both are loose-passive, you might well get a fourth upcard for free.

Case B: Button is loose-passive or weak-tight, Big Blind is weak-tight.

Solution: Raise. The Big Blind will probably fold, the button will call. You can lead out on any flop. Button may call with just overcards. You bet out again on turn and usually elicit a fold if opponent has not improved. If opponent calls on turn you check the river. If he raises, you fold.

Case C: Button is loose-passive, Big Blind is loose-aggressive.

Solution: Fold. Big Blind will quite probably raise your limp and might reraise your raise, meaning that you are not getting implied odds for your small pair against two opponents.

Case D: Button is weak-tight, Big Blind is loose-aggressive.

Solution: Raise. You are looking for a reraise from the Big Blind, which should get you heads up against him. You then just check and call to the end, even with just your pair. If a set arrives, even better. The worse-case scenario is if the Big Blind just calls and the weak-tight button just calls. Now you badly need a set.

Case E: Button is tight-aggressive, Big Blind is loose-passive.

Solution: Horrible. I would just call and pray for a set.

Case F: Button is tight-aggressive, Big Blind is tight-aggressive.

Solution: Fold. Find a new table. Why are you sitting here?

Case G: Button is loose-passive or loose-aggressive, Big Blind is tight-aggressive.

Solution: Raise. Big Blind may fold rubbish or will reraise with a hand. Either way, you are likely to be heads up. Against the Big Blind you go into check and call mode (unless you hit a set) while against the loose-passive button you take the lead in the betting.

If you are multi-tabling, you should not have to think about these things. Similar situations arise time and time again in limit, and you will be automatically playing in the style that suits you best and which wins for you best. Every so often a real piece of stickiness will appear on the turn or the river - the last thing you need is to have to think about a decision pre-flop at another table.